조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 김경아 Kyung Ah Kim , 장선일 Seon Il Jang , 조병옥 Byoung Ok Cho

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Abstract

In this study, low viscous O/W (oil-in-water) nano-emulsion with fatty acid and fatty alcohol was prepared by phase inversion emulsification method using Tween 80 and Span 80 widely used in cosmetic products. The particle size of the nano-emulsion was increased as increasing the concentration of fatty alcohol in oil phase. Adjusting the HLB of mixed surfactants, a stable nano-emulsion with a narrow size distribution was produced. Similar change in viscosity and electrical conductivity in both systems containing fatty acid and fatty alcohol was shown in the vicinity of the phase inversion point. However, high viscosity was shown in a wide range of different aqueous fraction unlike the system consisting only oils and surfactants. The low viscous nano-emulsion with less than 100 nm droplet size was stable for one month or more at room temperature. O/W nano-emulsions with low viscosity containing fatty acid or fatty alcohol produced by low-energy emulsification method can be widely used as formulations of cosmetics.

Key Words

nano-emulsion, fatty acid, stability, fatty alcohol, Ostwald ripening

박건혁 Gunhyuk Park , 장은영 Eunyoung Jang , 김성배 Seongbae Kim , 한은영 Eunyoung Han , 김용웅 Yong-ung Kim

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Abstract

Stress in skin plays a significant role in both the direct/indirect regulation of cellular processes occurring in hair, which in turn affect the hair cycle. However, experimental data regarding the effects of stress-related corticotropin releasing factor (CRF) released by stress on the apoptotic process involved in hair is limited. Therefore, we investigated the acceleration of early-stage apoptosis induced by atopy-related stress using a 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene NC/Nga mice model. Expression of CRF, its related proteins, annexin V, and mitochondrial dysfunction were measured by immunohistochemical analyses. Atopic stress strongly stimulated stress hormones response, such as CRF and adrenocorticotropic hormone, in outer epithelial sheath of the hair. Moreover, its stress induced mitochondrial damage and early-stage apoptosis of cells in hair root. These findings suggest that hair damage due to apoptosis in atopy model is accelerated in a high CRF environment. Importantly, the effect of stress-related CRF on apoptosis processes involved in atopy dermatitis- related hair loss, suggests that the CRF-regulating development or maintenance materials may provide effective therapeutic strategies for hair health.

Key Words

atopy, corticotropin releasing factor, hair root, apoptosis

문승리 Seung Ri Mun , 현주미 Ju Mi Hyun , 조연정 Yeon Jeong Jo , 정은영 Eun Yeong Jung , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

A. koreanum was investigated to identify the constituents possessing whitening effects. As anti-melanogenesis activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex fraction of A. koreanum; kaurenoic acid (1), 16α-hydro-17-isovaleroyloxy-ent-kauran-19-oicacid (2), 16α-hydroxy-17-isovaleroyl-oxy-ent-kauran-19-oic acid (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including ¹H and ¹³C NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis test using α-MSH stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1, 2 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. Based on these results, A. koreanum stems extract could be potentially applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

A. koreanum, whitening, anti-melanogenesis, constituents

이정아 Jung Ah Lee , 송은정 Eun Jeung Song , 박정준 Jung Jun Park , 김현주 Hyun Ju Kim , 김신혜 Sin Hae Kim , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon

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Abstract

Skin properties are influenced by a variety of internal or external factors. This study was conducted to investigate and compare the skin characteristics in Asian women. We evaluated values of skin physical parameters, and then assessed the correlations among the parameters, and regional differences in 1,500 Asian subjects in seven countries (Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Thailand, India, China, and South Korea). The values of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH, skin hydration, sebum content, skin sensitivity, elasticity, crow’s feet wrinkles, and skin brightness were measured. New Delhi’s women were observed to have a lower level of hydration in stratum corneum, sebum content, stinging scores, and darker skin color than others. Furthermore, their skin surface pH on all sites is the highest among seven countries. Vietnamese had the lowest pH values in skin surface. Korean and Chinese had generally higher elasticity and fewer wrinkles. Both the skin hydration and TEWL had positive correlations with the stinging test, and there was a negative correlation between wrinkles and stinging test. These results represent that there was no clear trend related to the area or region. Skin physical parameters should be studied along with understanding of regional differences and various factors (skin care habits, lifestyle and personal sensitivity).

Key Words

noninvasive measuring methods, skin characteristics, Asian

박소현 So Hyun Park , 김지민 Ji Min Kim , 김진환 Jin Hwan Kim , 오윤수 Yoon Soo Oh , 주동휘 Dong Hee Joo , 이은영 Eun Young Lee , 신혁수 Hyuk Soo Shin , 김아랑 A Rang Kim , 이상래 Sang Lae Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects and component analysis of 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction obtained from Annona muricata leaf were investigated. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, total antioxidant capacities were estimated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay and ¹O₂ quenching effects were estimated. Free radical scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 45.6, 29.8 and 18.0 μg/mL, and total antioxidant capacities (OSC₅₀) were 4.4, 1.1 and 2.8 μg/mL, respectively. As a result of ¹O₂ quenching experiment, ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction showed similar activities to L-ascorbic acid used as a comparative control. The cellular protective effects of 50% ethanol extract on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were exhibited at concentration-dependent (5-50 μg/mL). TLC and HPLC were used to analyse components in the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of Annona muricata leaf. In ethyl acetate fraction, rutin (quercetin-3-O-rutinoside), kaempferol- 3-O-neohesperidoside, nicotiflorin (kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside), p-coumaric acid were identified. In aglycone fraction, kaempferol was identified. These results suggest that the extracts of Annona muricata leaf have the applicability as antioxidant cosmeceutical ingredients.

Key Words

Annona muricata, antioxidative activity, cellular protective effect, component analysis, reactive oxygen species

김철 Chul Kim , 정새별 Sae Byeol Jeong , 임경현 Gyeong Hyeon Im , 강명환 Myeong Hwan Gang , 안준혁 Jun Hyuk An , 김진희 Jin Hee Kim , 이호 Ho Lee

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Abstract

This study was carried out to develop a stable plant-derived natural sunscreen (BHC-S) that replaces the artificially synthesized organic sunscreen agents. The natural sunscreen (BHC-S), which is composed of peanut extract, Centella asiatica extract, and Ecklonia stolonifera extract, has the same level of ultraviolet shielding effect as PARSOL MCX-XR (OMC), which is a synthetic sunscreen. and has safety against skin. MultiFunctional effect such as and anti- wrinkle improvement. Thus, it can be used as raw material for natural cosmetics for ultraviolet ray blocking, and anti-aging

Key Words

natural sunscreen, UV-B sensitive yeast, anti-wrinkle, Centella asiatica, Ecklonia stolonifera

남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

We have studied on the keratinocytes differentiation and skin barrier function using Adenophorae radix (A. radix) root extract, which was known to contain triterpenoid, saponin and starch. A. radix root extracts showed the PPARα expression level of Wy-14,643 0.5-1.0 μM in CV-1 cells. The cornified envelop formation (CE) of human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and normal human keratinocyte (NHK) showed a statistically significant increased compared to the control. When HaCaT cells were treated with A. radix root extract, transglutaminase (TGase-1) was significantly increased. As a result of clinical study of the simple cosmetic formulation containing A. radix root extract for about 2 weeks, TEWL values were significantly decreased and water contents were increased. The ceramides, which were obtained from the inner forearm, were also significantly increased statistically. We suggest that the A. radix root extract can be used as a preventive and therapeutic agent for skin diseases such as dry skin and atopy.

Key Words

Adenophorae Radix root extract, keratinocyte differentiation, skin barrier function, PPARα, cornified envelope and ceramide

김신애 Shin Ae Kim , 최수철 Soo Cheol Choi , 윤영한 Young Han Youn , 고창인 Chang In Ko , 하영순 Young Soon Ha , 이인아 In-ah Lee

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Abstract

In this study, free radical scavenging activity and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) experiments were carried out using Dioscorea japonica (D. japonica) and Chenopodium album (C. album) extracts to evaluate their anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. In the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity, EC₅₀ of D. japonica and C. album were measured as 2.386 and 0.524 mg/mL, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of the mixed sample of D. japonica and C. album was the highest when the D. japonica and C. album ratio was 2 : 1. The IL-6 and TNF-α ELISA assay showed that IL-6 in mouse spleen cells treated 1 mg/mL of samples, D. japonica and C. album decreased the production of IL-6 concentration by 27.17%, 72.30%. In the case of TNF-α, D. japonica and C. album decreased 61.97% and 77.85% of TNF-α production, respectively. Through these results, we confirmed that D. japonica and C. album have antioxidant and anti - inflammatory effects and could be applied to natural medicine cosmetic having anti - inflammatory effects.

Key Words

Dioscorea japonica, Chenopodium album, DPPH radical scavenging activity, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

이선화 Sun Hwa Lee , 이정아 Jung Ah Lee , 박선미 Sun Mi Park , 김영희 Younghee Kim , 장윤정 Yoon Jung Jang , 김보라 Bora Kim , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon

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Abstract

Skin tone plays a key role in one of the determinant for facial attractiveness. Most female customers have an interest in choosing skin color and improving their skin tone and their needs have been contributed the expansion of cosmetic products in the market. Recently, cosmetic customers, who want bright skin, are also interested in healthy and lively-looking skin. However, there is no method to evaluate the skin tone with the complexion-describing adjectives (CDAs). Therefore, this study was conducted to find the ways to objectify and digitize the CDA. We obtained that quasi L* at dark skin is 65 and quasi L* at bright skin is 74 for standard images, which are selected from our data base. To match the following seven CDAs: pale, clear, radiant, lively, healthy, rosy and dull, the colors of both images were adjusted by 30 panels. The quasi L*, a* and b* were converted from the RGB values of the manipulated images. The differences between the quasi L*, a* and b* values of standard images and manipulated images reflecting each CDA were statistically significant (p < 0.05). However, there were no statistical significances between the L* values of dark and bright skin images that were modified in accordance with each CDA and there also were no statistical significances between the quasi a* values of dark and bright skin for pale and clear CDAs. From the statistical analysis, the CDAs were observed to form three groups: (i) pale-clear-radiant, (ii) lively-healthy-rosy and (iii) dull. We recognized that people have a similar opinion about perception of CDAs. Following our results of this study, we establish new standard method for sensibility evaluation which is difficult to carry out scientifically or objectively.

Key Words

facial complexion, image analysis, quasi L*a*b*, RGB, adjectives

김홍일 Hong Il Kim , 정용운 Yong Un Jeong , 김종현 Jong Hyun Kim , 최인호 In Ho Choi , 이준호 Jun Ho Lee , 이창수 Chang Soo Lee , 박영진 Young Jin Park

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Abstract

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of Hovenia dulcis (oriental raisin tree) extract on ganodermanondiol (GN) contents in Ganoderma lucidum (G. lucidum) mycelia. GN has a triterpenoid structure and is one of the major active components of G. lucidum. Furthermore, we previously proved its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In this study, we observed significantly increased GN contents in G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with 15% (v/v) oriental raisin tree extract (ORTE) by HPLC analysis. In addition, melanogenesis was significantly inhibited by G. lucidum extract supplemented with 15% ORTE when compared to G. lucidum extract without ORTE supplementation. Furthermore, mycelial growth of G. lucidum was increased by ORTE supplementation in both solid and liquid cultivation. These results suggest that the oriental raisin tree is useful as natural ingredient for increasing GN biosynthesis as well as whitening effect of G. lucidum.

Key Words

Ganoderma lucidum, ganodermanondiol, Hovenia dulcis, melanogenesis, oriental raisin tree

정용운 Yong Un Jeong , 김홍일 Hong Il Kim , 김종현 Jong Hyun Kim , 박영진 Young Jin Park

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Abstract

This study was carried out to investigate the effect of lacquer tree (Rhus verniciflua) extract on ganodermanondiol (GN), tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis inhibitor, biosynthesis in Ganoderma lucidum mycelia. In HPLC analysis, GN contents were significantly increased in G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with of 1, 5, 10, and 15% lacquer tree extracts (LTE). In addition, G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with LTEs which had no cytotoxicity activity against B16F10 cells, significantly inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. GN biosynthesis was facilitated by LTE. Taken together, we propose that G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with LTE can be used as an effective ingredient of skin care products in the future.

Key Words

anti-melanogenesis, Ganoderma lucidum, ganodermanondiol, lacquer tree, Rhus verniciflua

김이옥 Yi-ok Kim , 정경환 Kyung-hwan Jung

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Abstract

We carried out the enzymatic synthesis of 1, 2-hexanediol galactoside (HD-gal) by transgalactosylation reaction using recombinant Escherichia coli β-galactosidase (β-gal). The amounts of β-gal and 1, 2-hexanediol (HD), pH, and temperature, respectively, were first optimized (β-Gal, 4.8 U/mL; HD, 75 mM; pH, 7.0; temperature, 37 ℃). Under these optimal conditions, about 96% HD was converted to HD-gal. When we investigated the water holding capacities (WHCs) of HD and HD-gal using pig epidermis in the concentrations of 84.4, 126.6, 168.8, 211.0 mM, WHC of HD-gal was superior to HD. In particular, at 168.8 mM HD and HD-gal, WHC of HD-gal showed about 20% greater than that of HD. However, it was observed that MIC values against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus of HD-gal were about three to ten times greater than those of HD, although MIC value of HD-gal against Enterococcus faecalis was almost the same as that of HD. Finally, it was concluded that the covalent bonding of a galactose molecule to HD (transgalactosylation) resulted in an increase in WHC of HD-gal and a decrease in anti- bacterial activity.

Key Words

1, 2-hexanediol galactoside, β-galactosidase, transgalactosylation, water holding capacity, minimal inhibitory concentration

박정희 Jeong Hee Park , 김종필 Jong Pil Kim , 김진아 Jin A Kim , 서계원 Kye Won Seo , 김은선 Eun Sun Kim , 서정미 Jumg Mi Seo

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Abstract

This study was conducted to determine 16 preservatives and 18 UV filter ingredients levels in 100 sunblock products. The order of detection rates of preservatives was phenoxyethanol (n=61), benzoic acid (n=19), methyl paraben (n=11), benzyl alcohol (n=8), propyl paraben (n=7). Also the order of detection rates of UV filter ingredients was titanium dioxide (n=81), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (n=69), zinc oxide (n=48), ethylhexyl salicylate (n=48), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine (n=44). The content of the detected preservatives and UV filter ingredients was within maximum allowed amount established by KFDA. In addition, preservatives and UV filter ingredients, which were not labeled in the products, were detected in 31 and 2 products respectively.

Key Words

cosmetic, preservatives, UV filter ingredients, sunblock products, HPLC